SOMMELIER PROFILE
João Pires
Portuguese sommelier João Pires is currently Head Sommelier at The Capital Restaurant, the only London restaurant situated within a hotel to hold two coveted Michelin Stars. João began his career in the drinks industry as a bartender in Lisbon. It was only when he went to work in Hotel Crillon in Paris in 1996, that he learnt about wine and began entering sommelier competitions. João has worked as a sommelier in many locations across the world, including France, Canada and China and prior to working at The Capital, he held the position of Head Sommelier at The Vineyard at Stockcross. He has also won a number of awards during his career including: Portuguese Gastronomy Academy ‘Sommelier of the Year’ and ‘Best International Sommelier of the Year’, International Academy of Gastronomy, Paris.
João is a particular fan of German wine and was one of eight sommeliers to join Wines of Germany last year on the annual sommelier trip to the Mosel, Nahe and Rheinhessen regions.
Which German wines do you have on your list?
We have a large range of German wines on our list. The list features wines from a number of Germany’s wine growing regions including the Mosel, Baden, Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Nahe, Ahr and the Rheingau. Our list includes wines from Egon Müller, Karthäuserhof, Dr Heger, Basserman-Jordan, Robert Weil, August Kesseler, Göttelmann, Wittmann and Meyer-Näkel. Currently, we also offer a German white and red by the glass (2001 Riesling Spätlese Trocken, August Kesseler, Rheingau and 2004 Spätburgunder, Meyer Näkel, Ahr).
When do you recommend customers to try German wines?
I often recommend German wines to my customers when they are choosing a wine to accompany the Menu Degustation. With scallops I suggest a dry Riesling or Weissburgunder. I also recommend an Auslese or Beerenauslese with some of our fois gras dishes and a Trockenbeerenauslese works particularly well with blue cheese or just on its own. I have recently hired a young German sommelier, who previously worked at Weingut Basserman-Jordan, which I believe will help greatly towards our customers understanding and enjoying German wines.
Who supplies your German wines?
I use a number of suppliers, but my main supplier is Iris Ellman of The WineBarn.
Why do you like German Wine? What first got you interested in it?
I like German wines, especially Riesling, for their great minerality, low alcohol, pure fruit, remarkable acidity and versatility - they can be dry, off-dry or sweet. German wines are also particularly food-friendly and have great ageing potential. It was Portuguese winemaker Dirk Niepoort who first brought my attention to German Riesling.
Have you been to Germany and if so what was the highlight of your trip(s)?
I have visited Germany and its wine regions on two occasions, most recently on a sommelier trip hosted by the German Wine Institute. I think the landscape of the Mosel is so beautiful, it reminds me of the Douro Valley in Portugal where I come from. It is amazing how such great wines are produced from such a difficult terroir. Rieslings from this area are fantastic and it is of course the versatility of this grape together with its minerality that appeals to me so much. I am a fan of Rieslings with a bit of residual sugar and lower alcohol, although a dry style can be equally superb.
Of all the wineries and producers visited, and I have visited quite a few, it was Weingut Dönnhoff in the Nahe that really caught my attention. The wines are like their creator, Helmut, straight, pure, serious but kind, discreet but complex and profound. His Eisweins are to die for and amongst the BEST I have ever tasted.
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